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Resources for Success

Adjustment Period

Bringing your new dog home for the first time is an exciting time for you and your new family member.  Below are some tips to help you both get off to a great start.

 Keep your expectations realistic. Every dog is an individual and have their own time frame of settling into a new home.

With most dogs, it takes at least three weeks for them to begin feeling like they're at home. Others, especially those that may have had a rough start in life, or were not socialized as much as some, it may take up to 2-3 months to feel completely safe and comfortable with their new family and environment.

Your newly adopted dog is definitely going to be under stress when he or she first comes in to your home. Ideally, it is always best to bring your new dog home when you are able to spend a couple of quality days with them. Keep excitement and activities to a minimum until you see your dog becoming comfortable and more aclimated to their new enviornment. Keep visitors, introductions to new dogs, places, and people to a minimum. Give them time to bond to YOU before placing them in other new or stressful situations they may not have ever encountered. Don't rush the process! If your dog is shy, please read "The Shy Dog" at the end of the Resources for Success list.

Signs of stress can be easily overlooked. Below are a few examples of what you could observe. Don't become alarmed. All of these are stress relievers a dog naturally uses and all of them will pass in time.

  • Panting/heavy drooling
  • Pacing/stretching/yawning
  • Agitated or skittish
  • Seems to be "on alert"
  • Overly submissive or shy
  • May not eat for a 1-3 days
  • Refuses treats
  • May drink very little water
  • May drink a lot of water
  • Lose bowel movements
  • May not have a bowel movement for 1-3 days
  • May not urinate for 1-2 days
  • Submissive urination

THINGS THAT CAN HELP

  • Develop a daily routine; a week of calm, constant routine can make a huge difference
  • Limit introductions to new people
  • Do not force your dog to interact with anyone they're not familiar with yet
  • Do not leave the dog outdoors unsupervised – they do not know who you are or that this is their new home and may try to ESCAPE
  • Be aware that they will probably try and DART OUT OF ANY OPEN DOOR – use a leash or put the dog in the crate before opening any door to an unfenced area
  • No trips to dog parks
  • If multiple dogs are in the home keep roughhousing and toy activity to a minimum
  • Go easy on the corrections
  • Allow the dog down time in their crate if you notice any stress
  • Exercise the dog by taking a daily walk
  • Do not introduce new/strange dogs until you see they are settling in and becoming comfortable with you, their new home and routine
Why do I have to take the dog to my vet within 30 days?

Depending on when we rescued the dog, the age of the dog, it may need vaccination boosters, or a follow up exam from a surgery we had done.

You must also take your dog to your vet to obtain your monthly heartworm and flea prevention. We also want your new dog to begin a relationship with your vet and their staff before you may need them for an illness or emergency.

ID Tags and Microchips

Identification is Essential
by Anna Nirva

Watch for collars that are too loose or too tight, and that don’t have ID tags. Pets deserve better from their families. A roaming pet without identification is at high risk for being picked up as a stray and might even be euthanized. Roaming pets can travel long distances. Reasonably-priced ID tags are available nearly everywhere. Speak with the owners or just do it anonymously. You may save a life.


Why Not Provide Tags for Adoptions?

Shelters and rescues often provide microchips for adopted pets, but they are not visible to human eyes; scanners are needed. The specific microchip technology used can be a factor in linking pets to owners as well. And even if a microchip is identified, the owner information can be out of date, causing a whole new set of hoops for the current owner. Collar tags have some important advantages: they are immediately visible by neighbors, assuming the pet allows their approach. A roaming pet can be returned home without aid of animal control. Responsible pet owners provide BOTH microchips and tags.

Could the animal welfare community provide tags at the point of adoption? Remember the most likely time for newly adopted pets to escape is right after adoption. A common refrain is “I was going to get my tags on Monday” but the dog or cat escaped on Saturday soon after arriving at the new home. Think about the pets: they don’t know they have been adopted! They believe that they are in the wrong place and must get back to where they were.

War Hero Dog Died for Lack of a Collar and Tags

Target’s family didn’t put a collar and tag on her or get a microchip implanted. They didn’t prevent her from escaping from her yard. And the neighbor who found Target without wearing any identification of course had no idea who she was, so called the pound. She was picked up by animal control and her photo was posted on the internet.

Her family found her photo but did not check the web site to learn the weekend hours that the pound was open. They came on Monday to pick her up. At the pound earlier that morning, a careless employee was performing her routine euthanasia duties and picked Target by mistake, not following the organization’s process. “Oops.”

Who was Target? Ask Oprah Winfrey, whose show Target appeared on. In Afghanistan, three stray dogs prevented a suicide bomber from detonating a bomb in the middle of a military barracks, and the bomb went off harmlessly near the perimeter. One of the dogs died from injuries suffered from the blast. The other two dogs, later named Target and Rufus, were brought to America by a charity to live out their lives in the land of plenty, where they have been widely celebrated for their roles in preventing a tragedy.

Do you see one mindless assumption after another here? These are shameful mistakes that manifest a careless, uninformed regard for animal life by Target’s family and the pound. If she had been wearing a collar with a phone number, the neighbor who found her running loose would have had her back home quickly. Target should be alive today—no excuses.

MICROCHIP INFORMATION

Your adopted dog could have any one of these micro chips implanted.  Please refer to your adoption packet and information for details.

  • Save This Life (Google Micro Chip) - this is the chip that ADR primarily uses unless the dog is already chipped when rescued
  • Avid
  • Home Again
  • 24 Petwatch

PLEASE KEEP YOUR DOG'S MICRO CHIP INFORMATION CURRENT AT ALL TIMES! And if your dog is not microchipped, please do not put off getting it done. Remember... if your dog ends up in the shelter, your dog may have only 72 HOURS away from becoming available for adoption or a deadly statistic.

If ADR gets a call that your dogs is lost/found or in a shelter, we will go get the dog, notifiy you later, and have a conversation as to why you were unable to be contacted.

Heartworms

Heartworms are a parasite that is transmitted from infected mosquitoes to dogs (and cats and other animals.) Heartworms are not contagious or transmitted to other animals. The infected mosquito bites and draws blood from one heartworm infected dog and then when it bite a dog that is not on regular monthly preventative, that dog is infected with heartworms. It takes approximately six months for a dog to test positive after they have been bitten.

When we accept a dog in to our rescue we very seldom know they are heartworm positive until we have confirmed on the dog, the shelter has done a work up which includes neutering the dog, giving the dog its vaccinations and a heartworm test. We find out when we go pick the dog up if the dog is negative or positive. On average, we treat 1-2 dogs per month for heartworms. The average cost for heartworm treatment is $500 to $1100 depending on the size of the dog.

Introducing Your New Dog to the Resident Dog

By this time both dogs have already met either at the foster home, your home or another location and now it's time to bring your new dog home. Below are helpful tips on what to do the first day you bring your dog home as well as the days following. 

If you follow this advice and steps carefully you, your new dog, and resident dog will have a much easier time making the first few days and weeks less stressful and can result in a much happier beginning. Educate yourself on your dog's breeds even if they are a mixed breed because some of their inherited and pre-disposed genetic breed traits will be present.

The biggest mistake people make is thinking they can put the dogs together and everything will be fine. Dogs are very ritualistic but those rituals can vary depending on the dog and their past experiences with other dogs. Your job is to supervise, guide and intervene if necessary. We want this adoption to not only go well for the adopted dog but your current dog as well.

  1. Do not bring your new dog home unless you have at least one hour to do reintroductions.
  2. Even though the dogs have already met, introductions are to be done on leash. Even if you feel your dog may be one that does better off leash, don't risk it with an unknown dog. Both people helping with the reintroductions must have control over the dogs at all times.
  3. If there is more than one other dog in the home following introduction steps separately with each dog then when you're comfortable add the other dog.
  4. Have treats handy to reward each dog for nice behavior. Do not "treat" the dogs while they are too close (next to each other) at first.
  5. Relax and your dogs will most likely relax too. 
    • If you feel tense STOP – take a deep breath in and blow it out. 
    • Consciously relax your NECK – SHOULDERS – ARMS – HANDS
  6. Now start your 30 minute walk together.
  7. Do a self check often for how relaxed you are. Let your relaxed posture and attitude go down the leash.
    • During the walk, have them walk side by side. 
    • If one dog is more nervous, alternate walking one in front of the other for a while, then go back to side by side again. 
    • Praise both dogs for friendly greetings and walking nicely with each other. Keep moving! 
    • Observe both dogs body language while on the walk.
  8. If one dog has to pee or poop on the walk, take the other dog a few steps away and give the dog time to finish. Allow the other to sniff but after the dog has finished.
  9. Once you return home from your walk, take both dogs in the back yard (fenced) and let go of the leashes but keep the leashes on the dogs.
  10. Look for sniffing, play bowing and other things dogs do to entice playing with each other. Praise them while they're playing and interacting appropriately. 
    • Some dogs may go off sniffing on their own. This is normal. The dog is giving the other dog signs to hold off and let them de-stress a bit and get use to their new surroundings.
    • You may see lip licking, yawning or stretching. These are calming signals to the other dog (and sometimes meant for YOU.)
  11. Once the dogs begin to interact or play, keep the interaction and play sessions short in order to avoid one dog getting overly aroused.
    • Intervene, calling the dogs to you, then send them off with an "okay!" to interact or play again for a few minutes.
  12. Provide each dog with a water bowl. Most dogs will share water but some do not. You may see one or both dogs drinking a LOT or not at all. This too is normal.
  13. Before going inside, make sure all toys, food bowls, bones and other items are put away.
    • One thing to keep in your mind at all times – when it comes to dog/dog possession – in their mind possession is 10/10th of the law. What's mine is mine and what's yours is mine. However this should not apply to dog/humans so consult a professional if your dog does not want to share any resource with you.
    • Many dogs do not like sharing what they would consider high value items. Those items could be balls, Kongs, especially bones, and their food or bowl.
    • Keep food bowls picked up at all times.
    • Remember to feed apart (not right next to each other) on opposite sides of the room, separate rooms or in their crates, until you know for sure neither guards their food or bowl.
  14. Ideally you've purchased a sturdy/safe baby gate and have it installed.
  15. Keep their leashes on for awhile once indoors.
  16. If there has been only positive interaction between the dogs, while you are able to directly supervise them (this does NOT mean going in another room to fix a snack, checking your email or getting distracted by anything else), allow them to interact indoors.
  17. If there has been any indication of negative interaction between the dogs, for the next 3-5 days, any time you cannot supervise them while you're home, separate them with a baby gate or crate.
  18. Any time you leave the house, both dogs should be crated.
    • Leaving one dog in a crate and the other running loose or placed outdoors or in another room could create anxiety with the crated dog or the dog that is loose.
    • If the crated dog was to escape their crate, you could come home to the aftermath of a dog fight or destruction of your home.
  19. Get familiar with dog body language – the signs they give whether stressed, calming, submissive, becoming aroused, or giving a "dirty look."
    • Be prepared to give a verbal correction before a potential problem happens. (HEY!/ UH-UH!/ACK!/NO!)
    • Do not think you can or try to make one dog the "alpha" over the other. You have absolutely no say over who is the "top dog" between the dogs.
  20. The most important thing they know is they can count on you to be "the" top dog.

During this settling in period BOTH dogs are under a lot of stress and going through a lot of changes. Ask the foster parent questions about the settling in period when the dog first came to their home. But keep in mind the experience, leadership styles and routine is different in every home. But by following the above steps and tips, yours and your dogs chance of success increases dramatically.

Give your new dog and resident dog time to adjust. Don't feel just because the first day or two didn't go perfectly that things can't work out. Things may go wonderfully for the first few days or weeks and then they can get more complicated. You're dealing with animals and why it is important for you to be a caring, yet fair and consistent and leader. The more consistent you are with their routine and letting them know what your expectations are regarding their behavior, the easier things will be. 

Keeping Your Dog at a Healthy Weight
Dog Body Weight Chart

Most dogs become overweight when the balance between food intake and exercise is not equal. It can be caused by gving your dog too many treats, feeding them human food, or lack of daily exercise. Check the chart out below and see how your dog measures up.

Please note: if you feel your dog is underweight or overweight consult with your veterinarian. If there are no apparent reasons why your pet may be too thin or too heavy there are blood test that can be done to determine the cause and the correct course of treatment.

Introducing Your Cat to a New Dog

Many dogs and cats get along very well. Dogs who are gentle and friendly and aren’t squirrel-chasing, predatory types can be great housemates with cats.

Even dogs who do chase small prey outdoors can often learn not to chase or harm cats indoors once they’ve grown accustomed to their household cats as family members.

Although you should carefully prepare and supervise your new dog, you should have little trouble integrating him into your household if he’s lived peacefully with a cat before or if your cat has lived with a dog. But keep in mind that dogs and cats, like people, need time to get to know each other. If they’ve never seen each other before, they probably won’t be instant friends.

Since cats take awhile to accept new cats, your cat might not accept a new dog as quickly as you’d like. It might take years for a trusting, mutually agreeable relationship to develop between a cat and dog who live together. The younger, more energetic and more tolerant your cat is and the smaller, calmer and more obedient your new dog is, the more likely it is that your cat will accept living with a canine companion.

Know What to Expect

Dogs who have never lived with cats usually react to them one of three ways:

  • Play. Your new dog might treat your cat like another dog and try to play with her, particularly if your dog is young and your cat is inquisitive and approaches him. If your cat is young and your dog is small, this interaction can lay the groundwork for a strong, relationship between the two. However, it’s more common for cats to react defensively to an invitation to play from a strange dog—or even a new, young cat. Cats generally don’t play as rambunctiously as dogs, and dogs often chase and bite during play. If your cat is older or your new dog is large, your dog’s playful behavior can be even more problematic. Play between dogs and cats should be closely monitored. Playful dogs often don’t respond appropriately to a cat’s signals to stop, and the tension or aggression between the two can escalate rapidly, causing the cat distress and putting her in danger. Keep in mind that a dog can kill a cat easily, even in play. And a scared or angry cat can use her claws to seriously injure a dog.
  • Prey. Unfortunately, dogs often perceive cats as prey. This is especially likely if your cat runs when she sees a dog. Your new dog might respond to your cat’s movement as he would to the movement of a fleeing prey animal. He might chase and even kill your cat. Similarly, cats who have never lived with dogs will likely view them as predators and will run or become defensively aggressive.
  • Cautious interest or avoidance. An older or quieter dog might be intimidated by your cat, particularly if she’s young or rambunctious. He might approach your cat cautiously or watch her from a distance and avoid her whenever possible.

Cats who have never lived with dogs generally react to them one of two ways:

  • Cautious interest or avoidance. Cats who were raised with dogs, young or confident cats, and cats living in multicat households might accept a new dog as a safe and interesting intruder. Their reaction might be to watch the dog from a distance or approach him inquisitively.
  • Defensive antagonism. Many cats don’t accept the introduction of new animals well. They consider other animals as intruders in their territory. And cats, unlike dogs, don’t have a built-in social system that helps them to peacefully share territory. They react defensively.

How to Set Up Safe, Successful Introductions:  It’s up to you to protect your cat and set up introductions carefully so that she feels safe and has a pleasant experience getting acquainted with your new dog.

Here are some suggestions for making the most of introductions:

  • Trim your cat’s claws to keep the interaction as safe as possible for your new dog. 
  • First impressions are important to a cat, so you want the initial meetings to be as stress-free as possible for her. Before you bring your cat and new dog together, prepare for their first introduction by working with your cat to teach her to redirect her attention to you.
  • Begin by identifying some treats that she likes best. Most cats prefer soft foods heavy with scent, like tuna or small pieces of chicken.
  • Bring your cat and the treats into the room where you’ll likely do your introductions. Then wait for her to look away from you. When she’s not looking at you, say her name. When she looks back, quickly praise her and give her a treat. Gradually allow her to get further away before you call her name so that she has to move toward you to get the treats.
  • Never yell or discipline her if she doesn’t react to her name. After some practice, she’ll begin to respond consistently because she’ll learn that when she responds to her name, you give her treats. If you attempt to discipline her for not responding, she could easily associate her name with your anger—and that’s the opposite of what you want to teach her!
  • Before you introduce your new dog and your cat, work with your dog separately to teach or refresh some obedience skills. Two important exercises for him to learn well are a recall (coming when called) and a “leave it” exercise. When your dog has learned these skills, you can control him if he gets overexcited around your cat. If you’re not sure how to teach your dog these skills, please see our articles, Teaching Your Dog to Come When Called, Teaching Your Dog to “Leave It” and Training Your Dog.

Also, don’t hesitate to contact a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area for assistance. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT near you.

At first, confine your new dog to a room using a baby gate. Don’t restrict your cat or change her environment any more than necessary. You can start to introduce your cat and your dog near the doorway to that room, with the baby gate between them.

To prepare for this first meeting, start by taking your dog outside and running him around to help him work off a bit of energy. Bring delicious treats that your new dog will love, like bite-sized pieces of chicken or cheese. Practice sit, down and stay after he’s run around for a while and seems to be getting tired. Then bring him inside and put him in his room, behind the baby gate.

  • Next, fill your pockets with your cat’s favorite treats. If your new dog is rambunctious, put his leash on him and have someone on his side of the gate to handle the leash.
  • Sit in front of the door and call your cat. Have your dog lie down or sit to keep him from behaving threateningly as she approaches.
  • When your cat comes, toss her a treat. Praise and treat your dog as well if he behaves calmly in her presence. Do this several times each day for a couple of days. This way, your cat will associate your dog with delicious treats and vice versa.
  • If your dog overreacts to your cat and does something that makes your cat back away from him, distract him and get his attention focused on you. Avoid accomplishing this by using leash corrections. Instead, get your dog’s attention by asking him to sit or lie down. Use treats to reward him for his fabulous obedience when something as interesting and distracting as your cat is nearby! Your cat should be free to approach the baby gate and get closer to your dog or to retreat if she wants to. Reward her any time she approaches the baby gate by tossing her treats.

Let your cat set the pace. Never attempt to force any interactions by holding your cat, putting her into a crate or carrier or restricting her movement in any way. If she doesn’t seem afraid of your dog, or if she even tries to jump over the gate to see him, you can introduce them in your living room or another large room with your dog on leash. Once you’re in the larger room, make sure your cat can get away from your dog during the introduction. She should have the freedom and room to retreat, run and hide, slip beneath a piece of furniture where the dog can’t follow, or jump up on something that puts her above your dog. Continue introductions until your pets interact in a calm, friendly manner. Cats often bat at a dog they accept with their claws sheathed or rub against him, and dogs respond by gently nudging back or offering a play bow.

Keep your dog on-leash during these introductions in the living room and for the first couple of weeks. Allow the leash to be loose, but hold it firmly in case your dog decides to try to chase your cat. Use your recall and “leave it” exercises if your dog starts nosing or following your cat and she seems perturbed. When you ask your dog to come to you or leave your cat alone and he responds, be sure to give him a special treat.

  • If your dog seems friendly or cautious, not much intervention on your part is required except to praise and reward your dog for his good manners and your cat for her tolerance.
  • Be careful to watch your cat as well as your dog. One well-aimed cat paw with all claws extended can cause serious injury to a dog.
  • Interrupt any chasing, barking or agitated behavior from your dog by using a leash to move him away from your cat. Redirect his attention to another activity, or ask him to do some easy obedience exercises for food rewards. To redirect your cat’s attention, call her name and use treat rewards like you practiced before bringing your new dog home.
  • Avoid scolding your dog, yelling at him or jerking on his leash. A positive approach is crucial because you want your cat and dog to associate each other with pleasant experiences.
  • You don’t want them to learn that everyone gets tense and angry and that bad things happen when the other pet is around. Dogs are more likely to engage in chase or prey behavior when they’re tense or aroused, and cats develop many undesirable behaviors—such as urine marking, excessive grooming, hiding and aggression—when they’re stressed or anxious.
  • When you’re not around or can’t directly supervise, keep your cat and dog confined in separate areas of your house. Most dogs and cats can share a home in harmony once they’ve gradually become accustomed to each other over time. However, if your dog chases your cat or ever shows intolerance toward your cat in your presence—such as growling when she walks past while he’s chewing a bone or being petted by you—keep them separated in your absence.
  • Your dog shouldn’t have access to your cat’s litter box. If he does, it will be highly stressful to your cat, and your dog might eat the feces and litter.
  • To prevent your dog from eating your cat’s food, consider feeding her on a high surface, like a windowsill, a dresser, a shelf or cat tree furniture.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care

Pool Safety

Every year hundreds of dogs lose their live by drowning and usually it happens in the family pool.  The most vulnerable are puppies and older dogs although many adult dogs also drown because they have not been exposed to water or precautions were not taken to properly introduce them to the water.

TIPS for SAFETY

Never assume a dog can swim or will like being in water.

  • Never throw a dog into the pool; he may panic and you may never get the dog in the water again, and more importantly, you have damaged the relationship with your dog.
  • Do not allow the dog outside unsupervised unless the pool is safely enclosed by a fence until you are 100% certain your dog knows the way out of the pool from all sides and areas.
  • Heat and sunlight are more intense around a pool. Your dog cannot keep as cool as you, so watch for signs of overheating.
  • Dogs with short coats, light colored coats, blue eyes and pink noses are extra sensitive to the sun and can get sunburned.  There are sun blocks specifically for dogs available online and in pet supply stores.
  • Provide them with fresh water to drink while outdoors to discourage them from drinking out of the pool. Chlorine can make them sick.
  • A tired dog is a good dog, but an exhausted dog is in danger of drowning.  Be aware of your dog’s physical condition.

STEPS TO INTRODUCING YOU DOG TO YOUR POOL:

  1. Supporting your dogs body while keeping is hindquarters and head above water, walk in to the shallow end of the pool.
  2. Go a short distance, allowing the dog to swim while being supported and then guide the dog back to the steps and allow them to gain their footing.
  3. Repeat the process several times and then venture to other areas of the pool
  4. Be patient until your dog feels comfortable in the water.
  5. Do NOT to let the dog panic and do not force the dog to be in the water if they do not want to be.
  6. Once your dog feels confident, use floating toys to toss in the water for them to retrieve while guiding back to the steps and out of the pool.
  7. Have fun and be safe!
What type and size crate should I use?

Most of our dogs are crated in wire crates, but some have used plastic crates.  In most cases, unless recommeded by your foster caregiver, either is fine.

crate wireWire crates come in many sizes.  Find the one that best fits for your dogs size/weight:

5-15 pound dog: 24" Crate

20-30 pound dog: 30/32" Crate

40-60 pounds: 36" Crate

60-90 pounds: 42" Crate

90+ pounds: 48" Crate

Plastic crates can sometime be a bit more of a challenge to size for your dog.  Here are some basic recommendations.

crate plastic5-15 pound dog:  23 x 15.2 x 11.8  Medium Size Crate

20-30 pound dog: 32 x 22.5 x 24 inches (Large)

40-60 pounds: 40 x 27 x 15 inches (X-Large)

60-90 pounds:  48 x 32 x 35 inches (XX-Large)

90+ pounds: 48 x 32 x 35 inches (XX-Large)

Outside Dogs

What compels people to get a dog only to keep it isolated outside, away from the family? I have often wondered this as I walk my dogs down streets lined with fences behind which lonely outdoor dogs bark as we go by.

I don't know what they look like and can only guess their size by the deepness of their voices. But I know what the lives of these dogs are too often like. They are animals born to be part of a social structure, a pack or a family, yet this is denied them. They spend their lives on the outside, looking in.

The experts say many of these dogs will never really bond with owners who interact with them so little.  When the puppy is no longer cute and the children grow tired of the care they promised to provide, when the destructiveness escalates or the neighbors complain about the noise, it's often just easier to dump the dog than solve the problem.

I have always had difficulty understanding why people want to keep dogs outside. If keeping a beautiful house and yard are of the utmost importance to you, then don't get a dog. If you know someone in you r family can't abide a dog in the house, for whatever reason, then don't get a dog. If you can't let a dog be part of your family, then don't get a dog.  

You don't get the benefits of companionship from a dog you see so little. You don't even get much in the way o
f protection from the pet who has no access to the house. And don't count on outdoor dogs as an early warning system. These animals often become such indiscriminate barkers that you couldn't tell from their sound whether the dogs are barking at a prowler or at a toddler riding a tricycle down the street. Besides, people who keep outdoor dogs seem to become quite good at ignoring the noise they make, as any angry neighbor can vouch.

Outdoor dogs often become a problem to their owners. Bored and lonely, these animals develop any number of bad habits. They dig craters in the yard.  They bark endlessly day and night. They become chewers of outdoor furniture, sprinkler heads and siding. And sometimes, without the socialization all dogs need, they become aggressive, ready to bite anyone who comes into their territory.

If you're considering getting a puppy or dog with the intent of keeping him exclusively outside, please reconsider-- for the animal's sake as well as your own and your neighbors'. For those who love pets, a pristine home is nothing compared to the pleasures of living with an animal who's really bonded to you.

If you have a dog who has been banished because of behavior problems, find someone to help you turn the situation around. Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer who can show you how to overcome the things that are driving you crazy, whether it's house-soiling, uncontrolled chewing or just the ill-mannered exuberance of a dog who doesn't know any better.

Allergies are a tad trickier, but an allergist may be able to help, along with attention to keeping the house and pets cleaner, using air cleaners and turning bedrooms into no-pet zones for allergy-free sleep.  It's worth the effort. Once you have a dog you can welcome into your home and your heart, you'll start to reap the benefits of a relationship that's finally being realized to its fullest potential. And that's good news for you both.

Why "Outdoor Dogs" Are Miserable
By Gina Spadafori | July 5, 2011

Housetraining

Accidents are common when dogs go from one home to another if they are unsupervised and have unrestricted access to multiple rooms. Supervise them! If you are busy and cannot give them your full attention, put them in their crate or tether them to you by their leash.

TIPS FOR HOUSETRAINING SUCCESS

  • Accompany your dog outside; Reward immediately with treats and praise
  • Do not leave them unattended unless you are sure they have recently eliminated
  • Do not allow them to go off in another room. Keep doors closed.
  • Crate them, set up baby gates or tether them to you so they cannot wander
  • Always use an enzyme cleaner (specifically for pets) to clean up any accidents

HOUSE TRAINING SIGNALS

The most common reason for housetraining set backs are humans not paying attention to the signals.

  • Sniffing in circles
  • Nudging you
  • Coming up to you and then leaving the room
  • Standing at the door
  • Staring at you
  • Pacing
  • Whining
  • Going off in another room alone
  • Not eliminating after eating or play

If an accident occurs, remember it is YOUR fault, not the dogs. If you walk in and find they have had an accident, it's too late to correct them. Don't say or do anything except clean it up. If you are having issues with housetraining ask us for more resources to help or contact a professional trainer.

What Supplies Do I Need?

Here is a whole list of items you'll need to set your dog up for success!

  • A crate (ask the dog's foster what size)
  • Quality food (see our list of acceptable foods here)
  • Metal or ceramic bowls for food and water (no plastic)
    • We highly recommend feeding your dog in a food dispensing toy!
  • A bed or crate mat
    • For puppies, no bedding in their crateuntil they are older and 100% housetrained is recommeded. 
    • Some dogs may chew or tear up a bed or crate mat so ask the foster caregiver if the dog had or did not have a bed in their crate.
  • Treats and chews
    • Give treats sparingly and always ask them to do something to earn it!
    • For adult dog, we do not recommend "rawhides" or "pigs ears" as these may become a choking hazzard, or in the case of the pigs ears, add calories.
    • We do recommend "bully sticks" and antlers, and other safe, hardy chews
  • Safe toys like a KONG, rope toys, tennis balls 
    • Note that some dogs will tear up stuffed toys so you might try one of the "stuffless" toys.  Tearing up these toys could also be a choking/swallowing hazzard.
Why You Should Crate Your Dog

Dogs are den animals by nature and most dogs will lie in their crate with the door open when it's time to nap. Dogs must EARN the privilege of freedom to be left uncrated, even at night. We believe that for most dogs, crates are one of the best tools for a safe and successful transition in to your home.

Crates are great for the settling in period, while the resident dog is getting used to the new dog and as a training tool until your dog is accustom to your home and new environment. Some dogs may always require crating when left alone. How long to crate depends on your dog's energy level and age. ALWAYS allow exercise or play time before and after crating.

The foster caregiver has spent time crate training your dog so that you and your dog will be successful. Using a crate anytime the dog is not closely supervised will save the relationship you have with your dog (and possibly your couch or rug!) It is our policy that a crate must be in place prior to the dog being left in your care and an adult dog crated for at least the first 60 days though we HIGHLY recommend crating for a much longer length of time. We require puppies to be crated at least until maturity. Not all dogs are suited to be left for hours unsupervised and may require crating for years, if not the rest of their life. We have a lot more experience bringing new dogs in to our homes that you may, so please follow our recommendation. Remember that a dog is not fully matured until they are approximately 3 years old.

Not only is crating your new dog a way to keep them and your items safe, but should the dog eat something,

it could end up costing you THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS to save their life.

What should I do if my dog begins misbehaving or I'm having an issue?

Before and problems escalate, you become frustrated, or just don't know what to do, contact a professional to help!

You and your dog attending a basic obedience class not oly makes your dog a remarkable companion, but also strengthens and takes the bond between you and your dog to a much higher level. There are many helpful resources on our website and a list of trainers we recommend.

Weekend Crate Training

Used properly, a crate is an effective short-term tool for managing and training your dog. If you train your dog to be content in a crate, you’ll provide a safe, cozy place that she can call her own and sleep in at night.

It also gives you a safe way to transport your dog and travel with her to motels, to friends’ homes, when on vacation, etc.  Crates are especially helpful when introducing a new dog into your household. You can also use a crate to efficiently house train your dog and prevent her from being destructive

Crates can be easily misused, however. They’re best used as a relatively short-term management tool, not as a lifetime pattern of housing. Your goal should be to work on any behavior problems and train your dog so that it’s not necessary to crate her 8 to 10 hours every weekday throughout her life. Please see our crate guidelines below, under How Long to Crate Your Dog, to avoid over-confinement and inadvertently causing behavior problems from a lack of exercise, training, socialization and companionship.

Some dogs are never happy in crates but can tolerate them when necessary. Others panic when closed in a crate (please see more information below under When NOT to Use a Crate). However, most dogs readily adjust to their crates, preferring to sleep or take refuge in them when they’re tired or things get too hectic.

Using a Crate to House Train Your Dog

You can use a crate to safely contain your dog during the night and whenever you can’t monitor her behavior closely. Dogs don’t like to soil their sleeping areas, so your dog will naturally avoid eliminating in her crate. If used for house training purposes, the crate should be sized so that your dog can lie down comfortably, stand up without having to crouch and easily turn around in a circle. If the crate is any larger, she might learn to soil one end of it and sleep at the other. If the crate is any smaller, she might be uncomfortable and unable to rest. (When you no longer need to use the crate for house training, you can purchase a larger one for your dog if you like.)

Using a crate will help you predict when your dog needs to eliminate and control where she eliminates. If she’s been crated overnight or for a few hours during the day, the chances are extremely high that she’ll eliminate as soon as you release her from the crate and take her outside. So, with the crate’s help, you can prevent your dog from eliminating indoors and have a chance to reward her for going in the right place—outside. For more information about house training your dog, please see one of our articles, House Training Your Puppy or House Training Your Adult Dog.

Using a Crate to Prevent Destructive Behavior

In addition to acting as a house-training tool, your dog’s crate can prevent her from being destructive. Dogs and puppies need to learn to refrain from doing a lot of things in their homes, like digging on furniture or rugs, chewing table legs, cushions or other household items, and stealing from garbage cans or counters. To teach your dog not to do things you don’t like, you must be able to observe and monitor her behavior. Confining her in a crate can prevent unwanted behavior when you can’t supervise her or have to leave her home alone. If your dog has a chewing problem and you’d like more information about how to resolve it, please see our article, Destructive Chewing.

How Long to Crate Your Dog

At night when dogs sleep, their body systems and elimination slow down. This is why they can go all night without eliminating once they’re old enough to have sufficient bladder and bowel control. But during the day, neither puppies nor adult dogs should be crated for more than four or five hours at a time. When crating a puppy for more than two hours, it’s best to provide water by attaching a water bottle dispenser to the crate. (Using a bowl can create a mess.) Follow these daytime duration guidelines to avoid compromising your dog’s well-being or causing behavior problems:

Age Maximum time in crate

8–10 weeks 30–60 minutes

11–14 weeks 1–3 hours

15–16 weeks 3–4 hours

17+ weeks 4–5 hours

If you have a puppy and you work all day, it’s essential that you give your puppy a midday break from the crate every day for at least her first eight months. Even with a break, though, your puppy will still have to tolerate two four-hour periods of confinement. That’s a long time, so make sure she gets a good romp in the morning before you leave for work, during lunch and after work. If you can’t go home during your lunch break, you can hire a dog walker to visit your puppy midday, but keep in mind that she still needs quality time with you. She should get to enjoy some playtime in the morning and another play and training session when you come home from work.

If you’re using the crate for house training, remember that it’s a temporary tool. Your goal is to create a dog who can be trusted to have freedom in at least part of your house while you’re gone. When you’ve accomplished this, you can still keep the crate for your dog to sleep or hang out in. Just remove the door or leave it open.

An adult dog can be crated for as long as eight hours on occasion, but daily crating of this length could compromise your dog’s mental and physical well-being. Be sure that she’s received adequate exercise before a long stay in the crate—at least 30 to 60 minutes. If your dog is crated overnight as well, she should receive at least 60 to 90 minutes of outdoor exercise in the morning and before being put back in the crate at night.

When NOT to Use a Crate

Dogs who suffer from separation anxiety should not be confined in a crate. (For more information, please see our article, Separation Anxiety.) If your dog shows any of the following signs of separation anxiety, please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a qualified expert in your area:

  • Destructiveness, vocalizing or house soiling during the first 30 minutes after you leave your dog alone in the house
  • Destructive behaviors that consistently occur only when she’s left by herself in the house
  • Destructive behavior directed at windows, doors, flooring in front of doors or items with your scent, like seat cushions or the TV remote

Some dogs don’t tolerate crating well due to other types of fears or anxieties, like thunder phobia. Don’t crate your dog if you see signs of anxiety when she’s crated, such as:

  • Damage to the crate from your dog’s attempts to escape
  • Damage to surrounding objects that she’s been able to reach while inside the crate
  • Wet chest fur or a lot of wetness in the bottom of the crate from drooling
  • Urination or defection in the crate
  • Your dog moves the crate while she’s inside
  • Excessive barking or howling during your absence (You can get reports from neighbors or record your dog’s behavior using a video camera.)

In addition, don’t crate your puppy or dog if:

  • She’s too young to have sufficient bladder or bowel control
  • She has diarrhea
  • She’s vomiting
  • You must leave her alone for longer than the time indicated in the crate duration guidelines above
  • She hasn’t eliminated shortly before going in the crate
  • The temperature is uncomfortably high
  • She has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization

How to Crate Train Your Dog: The Weekend Plan

Some trainers and behaviorists recommend introducing your dog to a new crate very gradually, over a period of a week or more. This method works well for timid dogs who fear confinement and for dogs who have already learned to dislike crates. But many dogs can learn to use crates more easily, and many people just don’t have the time to devote an entire week or more to training before being able to use a crate.

If you need to start using a crate as soon as possible, try the following Weekend Crate Training plan. After your training sessions on Saturday and Sunday, you’ll be able to start confining your dog in her crate on Monday.

To successfully use this crate-training plan, you’ll need to follow the directions below, step by step. It’s important to avoid skipping ahead and leaving your dog alone in the crate before she’s ready. To confine your dog at night over the weekend, put her in a small, safe area instead. You can use an exercise pen or baby gate to block off part of your kitchen, a bathroom or a laundry room. Make sure that the area is dog-proofed and free of things that your dog shouldn’t chew. You can leave her with something comfy to lie on, some water, her toys and some chew things to keep her occupied. It’s best not to leave your dog home alone at all during the day on Saturday or Sunday. If you must do so for some reason, you can use the same dog-proofed area so as not to deviate from your training plan.

Preparation - Choosing a Crate

Pet supply stores and online vendors sell wire crates, plastic airline crates and mesh crates. Each style has its own advantages. Wire crates usually collapse for easy storage and portability, and they provide more ventilation than plastic ones. Plastic crates seem especially den-like and might make dogs feel safer and more secure when they’re inside. Mesh crates provide privacy for dogs and are the most portable, but they aren’t very durable. Some dogs chew through them and escape.

Comfy Crate

After choosing which kind of crate to use, it’s important to make the new crate comfortable. Put it in a room where you spend lots of time, but out of the way of foot traffic. Next, put a soft bed or blanket and a toy or two inside. You can even put a shirt you’ve recently worn into the crate so your dog will feel comforted by your scent. (If your dog likes to chew fabric, you can skip this part.) If you purchase a wire crate for your dog, she might like to have a blanket or towel draped over it to create a more “den-like” feel.

Friday Night: Before You Start Training

The most important part of crate training is teaching your dog to associate her crate with things she loves. Try the ideas below to convince your dog that her new crate is the place to be:

The Treat Fairy

Leave the crate door wide open and make sure your dog has access to the room where you’ve set up the crate. Every so often, when she’s not looking, sneakily toss a few treats around and into the crate so she can discover them on her own. Use something that your dog will love, like small pieces of chicken, cheese, hot dog or freeze-dried liver. You can also leave an exciting new toy, a delicious chew bone or a stuffed KONG® toy inside the crate. Periodically leave special treats in your dog’s crate throughout the evening—and continue to do so every day or so for the next few weeks. If your dog sometimes finds surprise goodies in her crate, she’ll start to love it, and she’ll probably go into it often just to see if the “Treat Fairy” has come.

Room Service

When it’s dinnertime for your dog, place her bowl inside the crate and leave the door open. Try putting the bowl in the back of the crate so your dog has to stand inside the crate to eat. If she seems too uncomfortable to go into the crate at first, you can put the bowl just inside the door instead. That way, she only has to put her head in the crate. Over time, as your dog becomes more and more comfortable stepping inside, you can move the bowl all the way to the back of the crate and, eventually, close the crate door while she eats her meals.

Prepare Supplies for Saturday and Sunday

Over the next couple of days, you’ll reward your dog often for going into her crate. It’s a good idea to prepare some treats in advance. Cut some chicken, cheese, hot dogs, soft dog treats or freeze-dried liver into bite-sized pieces and set them aside for later use. You can also stuff two or three KONGs, which you’ll give your dog when you start to increase the length of time she stays in her crate.

Saturday Morning: Let the Crate Fun Begin!

You’re ready to get started. Gather the treats you prepared and take your dog to the crate.

Step One: Follow the Treat

You can do the following exercises sitting on the floor or in a chair right next to the crate.

  • Give a cue to ask your dog to go into the crate, such as “Go to bed.” (Choose whatever cue you like, just be sure you always use the same one.)
  • Show your dog one of the treats and toss it in the crate. After she goes inside to eat it, praise her enthusiastically and feed her another treat while she’s still inside.
  • Say “Okay” to let your dog know she can come out again. You don’t need to reward her when she comes out of the crate. She needs to learn that all good things happen when she’s inside the crate.

Repeat the steps above 10 times. Take a short break (just a few minutes), and then do another set of 10 repetitions. After your second set, end the training session.

Step Two: Earn the Treat

Later on in the morning, collect some treats and bring your dog to the crate for more training. Now that she’s practiced following a treat into the crate, try asking her to go in before rewarding her with the treat.

  • To warm up, do a couple of repetitions just like you did before—throwing the treat into the crate so that your dog follows it. Then you can change the rules a little.
  • Give your cue, “Go to bed,” and point to the crate instead of throwing a treat into it. (When you point, it might help to move your arm like you did when tossing a treat into the crate. The familiar motion can remind your dog what she’s supposed to do.)
  • When your dog goes in, praise her and immediately give her a couple of treats while she’s still in the crate.
  • Say “Okay” and let your dog come out of the crate.

Do 10 repetitions and then take a short break. Repeat the exercise another 10 times—or until your dog seems to know the game and enters and exits readily when you ask her to.

If your dog seems nervous about going into the crate or confused about what she’s supposed to do when you say the cue, go back and practice Step One for a while longer. When your dog confidently rushes into the crate to get her treat, you can try Step Two again.

Saturday Afternoon: Close the Crate Door

Now it’s time to get your dog used to being in the crate with the door closed.

  • To warm up, do a couple of repetitions just like you did before. Say “Go to bed,” point to the crate, reward your dog with a treat when she goes in and then say “Okay” to let her know she can come out.
  • Now you’ll try closing the crate door for just a moment. Give your cue “Go to bed” and point to the crate.
  • When your dog goes in the crate, praise her and immediately give her a treat. Then gently close the crate door. (You don’t have to latch it yet.) Feed your dog two or three treats through the closed crate door and continue to praise her while she’s in the crate.
  • Say “Okay” and open the crate door to let your dog come out. (If your dog seems stressed or panicked with the door briefly closed, break down this exercise into two phases: in the first phase, just close the door halfway, give a treat and release your dog; in the second phase, close the door all the way.)

Do 10 repetitions and then take a break for a minute or two. Then repeat the exercise 10 more times, slowly building up the time your dog stays in the crate with the door closed. As you increase the time, throw in some easy repetitions, too. Start with 1 second, then increase to 5. Try 8 seconds, then go back to 3. Increase to 10 seconds, then 15, then 20, then an easy 5.

Continue to generously reward your dog whenever she’s in the crate. After you finish your second set of 10 repetitions, take a half-hour break. Then repeat the exercise again. Over the afternoon, try to build up to having your dog stay in the crate for one minute.

Saturday Evening: Introduction to Alone Time

When your dog is used to hanging out in her crate with the door closed while you sit nearby, you can move on to the next step: leaving her alone for a little while. Repeat the exercise you’ve been practicing, just as it’s described above—but this time, latch the crate door and start to move away from the crate.

  • To warm up, do a couple of repetitions like you did in the afternoon. Sit on the floor or in a chair next to your dog’s crate. Say “Go to bed” and point to the crate. When your dog goes in, close the crate door and reward her with a few treats while she stays in the crate. After about 30 seconds, say “Okay” and open the crate door to let your dog out.
  • Now you’ll close the crate door briefly. Say your cue, “Go to bed,” and point to the crate. When your dog goes in, close and latch the crate door, and then give her a treat.
  • Stand up and give your dog another treat. Take a few steps away from the crate and then return to give your dog a treat.
  • Say “Okay” and open the crate door to let your dog come out.

Repeat the steps above 10 times, each time walking away in a different direction. After a short break, do 10 more repetitions, slowly building up the time your dog stays in the crate while you walk around the room. As you increase the time, throw in some easy repetitions. Start with 10 seconds, then increase to 15. Try 20 seconds, then go back to 10. Increase to 30 seconds, drop to 15, then up to 45, and then an easy 5. Continue to return to the crate and reward your dog every few seconds while she’s inside. In the beginning, be very generous. As your dog becomes more and more comfortable resting in her crate, you can gradually decrease how frequently you treat her.

After you finish your second set of 10 repetitions, take a half-hour break. Then repeat the exercise another 10 times. Start leaving the room for a few seconds at a time, always returning to reward your dog while she’s in the crate. Try to work up to having your dog stay in the crate for one minute while you walk around the room and briefly leave the room.

Sunday Morning: TV Time

This morning, you’ll teach your dog to relax for longer periods in her crate. You’ll need some treats, a new tasty chew bone or a KONG toy stuffed with something wonderful, like a little peanut butter or cream cheese, and something to occupy yourself. Ask your dog to go in her crate. When she does, praise her and give her the chew bone or stuffed KONG. Then close the crate door and settle down to watch TV or read a book in the same room. Keep your dog in her crate for about half an hour. (If she finishes her chew, you can periodically give her a treat or two, as long as she stays quiet.)

When the half hour is up, calmly open the crate and say “Okay,” so that your dog can come out. Take her chew thing away, and don’t reward her with treats when crate time is over. In fact, it’s best if you just ignore your dog for a few minutes. Again, you want her to learn that great things happen while she’s in the crate, not when she comes out. Take a break from training for a while. An hour or two later, you can repeat the exercise.

Canine Complaining

At this point in your training, your dog might start to object to confinement in her crate. If she barks or whines, you have two options:

  • Ignore her entirely. (Get yourself a pair of earplugs if you need to.) She’s trying to get your attention, so don’t reward her barking by giving it to her! Pretend she’s invisible. As soon as she stops vocalizing for a few seconds, you can give her a treat. With repetition, your dog will learn that she gets ignored if she makes noise, but if she’s quiet, you deliver tasty treats.
  • As soon as your dog starts to bark or whine, make some sort of noise to let her know that she’s made a mistake. You can say “Oops!” or “Too bad,” and then immediately leave the room. Don’t come back until your dog has been quiet for at least 5 to 10 seconds. With repetition, your dog will learn that making noise makes you instantly leave but being quiet makes you come back.

It’s important that you respond consistently when your dog makes noise in her crate. It might be frustrating at first, but if you stick to your plan, she’ll learn that it’s in her best interest to rest quietly when crated.

Sunday Afternoon: Alone Time

Before moving on to Sunday afternoon exercises, give your dog a good workout. Take her outside on a brisk walk or jog, play fetch or tug, or give her a chance to play with a dog buddy. Crate training will be easier if she’s tired. After you’ve exercised your dog, repeat the training steps you practiced this morning, but this time, instead of settling down to relax in the same room as your dog, you’ll move around the house.

  • Ask your dog to go in her crate. When she does, hand her a delicious chew bone or a stuffed KONG. Then close the crate door and walk out of the room.
  • Stay out of the room for 10 minutes. After the time’s up, you can return and let your dog out of the crate. (If she hasn’t finished working on her chew thing, take it away after she leaves the crate. She only gets special goodies during crate time.) If your dog makes noise in the crate while you’re gone, don’t return to let her out until she’s been quiet for 5 to 10 seconds.
  • After a short break, repeat the exercise.

This afternoon, continue to repeat the steps above, slowly building up the time your dog stays in her crate. Try to work up to one full hour of alone time.

Sunday Evening: Time to Leave the House

If your dog can quietly rest in her crate for an hour while you move around the house, you’re ready to leave her home alone. Ask your dog to go in her crate and give her something delicious to chew or eat, just like you did before. Then close the crate and, without saying any goodbyes, leave the house for about 10 minutes. When you return, calmly let your dog out of her crate and take away her chew. Resist the urge to celebrate. Your dog will feel most comfortable going into and out of her crate if you act like it’s no big deal.

Repeat the exercise as often as possible before bedtime, with exercise and potty breaks in between training times. Try to build up to leaving your dog in her crate, home alone, for an hour or two.

The Weekend’s Over… What Next?

Now that you‘ve completed the Weekend Crate Training plan, your dog can start to stay in her crate whenever you leave the house, overnight and when you can’t directly supervise her during the day. Abide by the crate duration guidelines above, and keep the following tips in mind to make sure your dog continues to feel comfortable in the crate:

  • Always try to thoroughly exercise your dog before crating her. (Aim for at least 30 to 60 minutes of aerobic exercise.) If you crate your dog while you’re at work and overnight, she’ll need lots of quality play time and exercise with you when she’s not in her crate. Please see our articles, Exercise for Dogs and Enriching Your Dog’s Life, for information about keeping your dog’s mind and body well exercised.
  • Always take your dog out for a potty break before crating her and right after letting her out of the crate.
  • Continue to feed your dog her meals inside the crate and always leave her with something to chew when she’s in her crate. (Speak with your veterinarian for advice about what’s safe for your dog to chew while she’s alone.) If you reserve special things, like dinner, new chew bones, stuffed KONGs and pig ears for crate time, your dog will learn to love going into her crate.
  • Leave your dog’s crate open so that she can access it at all times. Many dogs choose to rest inside their crates even when they don’t have to.

Having Trouble?

Crate training can be challenging for some dogs, so don’t hesitate to enlist the help of a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area. A professional trainer will offer group or private classes that can provide lots of help with crate training. Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate a CPDT near you.

Troubleshooting

My Dog Makes Noise in the Crate

Although it might be difficult, resist the urge to yell at your dog if she complains in her crate. She might respond by quieting down—but the attention from you, even though it’s negative attention, might increase her barking and whining instead. Scolding might also upset your dog, and you want to make her time in the crate as stress-free as possible. It’s also crucial to avoid breaking down and releasing your dog from the crate when she’s making noise. Doing this will send her a clear message: If she barks and whines long enough, you’ll eventually let her out! The key is to teach your dog that you won’t let her out of the crate if she’s making noise—but you will reward her with treats or let her out if she stops.

However, if you have a young puppy, she might not be able to sleep through the night without having to eliminate. If your puppy whines in the middle of the night and you think she might need to go out, do let her out of the crate. Then you can take her directly to the place where you’d like her to eliminate and wait. If she doesn’t go within a minute or two, take her back inside and return her to her crate. Don’t let her romp around during the potty break. You don’t want her to learn that if she whines in her crate, you’ll take her out for playtime!

My Dog Is Afraid to Go Into the Crate

Dogs who seem very nervous about going into crates might need preliminary training with crate-like objects. If your dog seems reluctant to step into a crate, you can try teaching her to walk under a suspended tarp or blanket, step between two upright boards or lie down in the bottom half of an airline crate (with the top removed) before trying to coax her into an enclosed crate. When you start training with an airline or wire crate, it might make your dog more comfortable to remove the door or simply leave it ajar. If you have a mesh crate, flip the door up over the roof to keep it open. It can also help to teach your dog Sit, Down, Stay, Step Forward and Step Back. These skills will give you more control when you’re asking your dog to do specific behaviors in and around her crate.

After some preliminary training with less scary crate-like objects, you can try Weekend Crate Training, but instead of spending a day on each step, try going through the plan more slowly. Only progress to the next step when your dog seems completely comfortable.

My Dog Panics in the Crate

If your dog experiences extreme anxiety when you try to confine her in a crate, let her out immediately and seek the help of a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT). Please see our article, Finding Professional Help, to locate one of these professionals in your area. If you elect to hire a CPDT because you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully working with anxiety, since this work is beyond what CPDT certification requires.

My Dog Guards Things or Behaves Aggressively in Her Crate

Dogs who guard their belongings sometimes also guard the area around their crates. If your dog has guarded objects, food or places in the past, always be cautious when walking by her open crate or when removing her from the crate. Avoid reaching into the crate to pull your dog out. Instead, you can entice her out or lift the crate up from the back to “spill” her out. For more information about guarding, please see our article, Food Guarding.

Some dogs seem to feel vulnerable and trapped when they’re in crates or other small spaces. These dogs might react with aggression when approached by unfamiliar people or dogs while inside their crates. If this sounds like your dog, please seek guidance from a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT). If you elect to hire a CPDT because you can’t find a behaviorist in your area, be sure to determine whether she or he has professional training and experience in successfully working with aggression. This work is beyond what CPDT certification requires, and you need to be sure the trainer is qualified to help you.

Decreasing Confinement, Increasing Freedom

You can begin to give your dog more freedom in your house while you’re gone once she’s thoroughly house trained, has eliminated consistently outside with no accidents for at least one month, and chews or destroys only her own toys—not your house or household items. The right time to give your dog more freedom will depend on her individual personality. Some dogs can be destructive when alone until they are about two years old, while others can be trusted at one year or less.

Here are some suggested steps toward increasing your dog’s freedom outside the crate:

  • Start with brief absences with your dog free in your house. Be sure to dog-proof your home before you go. Put your garbage away and pick up items you don’t want your dog to chew. Leave out several toys that she can chew. You want to set her up to succeed!
  • Don’t give her freedom in the whole house at first. Use baby gates or close doors to prevent her from getting into rooms you don’t want her in yet. Or try confining her to just one room, like the kitchen or laundry room.
  • Walk out the door and run a short five-minute errand. If you come home to a mess, try a shorter absence.
  • If, after a couple more attempts at short absences, your dog is still making messes, she might not be mature enough to be left alone in the house yet. Alternatively, her continued destructiveness might mean she has separation anxiety. Please see our article, Separation Anxiety, for more information about this problem. If you think your dog might have separation anxiety, please see Finding Professional Help to locate a qualified behaviorist in your area.
  • If you return and there are no messes, gradually lengthen your absences. For example, start with five minutes. Then try a half-hour, then an hour, then two hours and, finally, four or five hours (the maximum recommended length of time).

What NOT to Do

  • Do not use a crate to contain your dog simply because she’s a nuisance and requires attention. A puppy or young dog can sometimes be annoying and exhausting, but it’s unfair and negligent to lock her up rather than provide the training she needs.
  • Do not put your dog in her crate to punish her. If you do, she’ll probably come to dislike the crate. It’s fine to use the crate sparingly as a time-out place, but your dog should have many more pleasant experiences with her crate to counteract any possible unpleasant associations.

S. Hetts & D. Q. Estep (2000). Canine Behavior: Body Postures, Evaluating Behavioral Health. Animal Care Training Program.

The Shy Dog

This information is provided based on experiences we have encountered working with shy or fearful dogs.  Please consult your personal trainer before starting any rehabilitation or training with your shy or fearful dog.

The foster caregiver of your adopted dog has been working to help your dog build their confidence and to become more comfortable with new people and new environments. We do not place our shy dogs until we have seen drastic improvement and feel they are ready to begin their new life.

We may have had your dog in our program for only a matter of weeks while others, we may have for months. We do not rush their rehabilitation, we look for the ideal adopter for these dogs, and we will not place them in their adopted home until we feel they are ready.

When we evaluate shy dogs for our program, there are certain attributes we look for. We want to make sure we have a foster caregiver that is experienced capable of helping and rehabilitating the dog. We look for dogs that would rather turn away, hide, or may be slow to seek out attention, rather than strike out and bite. These special dogs are only placed in the most experienced hands to guide them to feeling safe and building their confidence.

Each dog shy dog we rescue comes to us with difference levels of skills and socialization. This is general information about shy/fearful dogs and we recommend that you seek out a professional trainer that has extensive knowledge and expertise working with shy/fearful dogs to help you and your dog along your journey.  Contact your dogs foster caregiver anytime for assistance or resournces.

Reasons Why a Dog Is Shy or Fearful

  • Genetics: Certain breeds are more aloof and reserved than others and without taking extra steps during critical stages of development can result in a dog being shy or fearful. Make sure you have researched your dogs breed (even if it is a mix) and get familiar with their genetic traits.
  • Kept Isolated with Mother or Siblings: If kept with a shy mother or  littermates too long without other socialization opportunities, your dog may have learned this behavior from their mother and/or other littermates.
  • Lack of Early Socialization: This is the most common reason for a dog to be shy or fearful of new things. Even if they left their mother and litter at the appropriate age (7-8 weeks), they may have missed important social opportunities as a puppy during their critical stages of development. In addition, certain frightening things could have happened to them during these critical times and left a lasting impression.

Training using ONLY Force Free Positive Reinforcement

Counter Conditioning teaches your dog to associate a previously unpleasant thing or situation with something pleasant.

Desensitization is a training method that presents a stimulus (what the dog is afraid of) at a low intensity and then gradually increasing the intensity over time.

Redirect Get your dog’s attention using motivation in conjunction with a command and asking them to do something that requires them to engage in a wanted behavior rather than an unwanted behavior.

Reward: Instantly reward the newly learned or desired behavior by providing them their “motivation” (treat) and praise.

Capturing involves using a clicker or other marker to mark a behavior the animal performs naturally without being asked or prompted.

Important Safety Reminders

  • Be aware before opening any doors to unfenced in area.
  • ALWAYS use a no-slip collar (Martingale Style) on walks and outings
  • Use a seatbelt, crate or attach their leash to something when transporting your dog
  • The First few weeks, have a leash on the dog, even indoors. Never reach or grab towards the dog or their collar. If you must lead your dog to their crate or other area, step on the leash and gently guide them to you. Remove the leash any time the dog is not being supervised.
  • No Visitors for the First Week. If you take the dog for a walk, make certain the dog is wearing a no-slip collar
  • Control The Situations Your Dog Encounters.
  • Always remember YOU are your dogs advocate.
  • Intervene if needed to avoid an unsafe or unpredictable situation.
  • Hand Feed the Dog as Many Meals as Possible. Regular kibble may not be enough of an enticement for some dogs so you may have to resort to using canned food, cooked chicken or some other highly desirable food. Yes, this may not be ideal for you, but may be just enough for your dog to slowly learn to trust you and learn your hands are not to be feared. If the dog will not eat out of your hand, try again later or at the next meal.
  • Avoid eye contact. Use verbal praise and chest scratches as their reward.
  • Keep to a Schedule And Routine. This will help the dog settle in at a much great speed. Regular feeding times, crate time, walks, and bedtime.
  • The Dog Never Goes Outside Without a Leash On. If the dog gets away from you outside, even in a fenced yard you will not be able to catch them. Chasing will only make them distrust you more.
  • Potty Breaks. Once you get them outside, ignore the dog, and give him 5-10 minutes to go potty. Reward with a “super treat” as soon as they are done OR for dogs that are not ready to accept treats (still stressed) in a quiet, happy, friendly voice (but not too exuberant or overpowering), verbally praise them, step on the leash and guide them back into the house.
  • Do Not Give Them More Freedom Than They Have Earned. Though they may have earned certain privileges, like not being crated in their foster home, they have to begin at square one in your home.


While They Are In Their Crate: Yes, use a crate! Each person in the family (and visitors) should be dropping “super treats” (cooked chicken/cheese/hot dogs) inside their crate while they are resting inside.

Won’t Come Out Of The Crate? Open the crate, and snap on the leash. Try using “super treats” to lure the dog out. If they will not come out, leave the leash on, leave the crate door open, TOTALLY ignore the dog and when they do come out, ignore them, then calmly walk over, step on/pick up the leash without looking at them or speaking to them.

Leaving, Coming Home and Waking Up. Do not acknowledge or take the dog out of the crate for 3-5 minutes after you get home. Snap on the leash and take the dog straight outside, not making any eye contact. Praise!

When Leaving: Put the dog in their crate with a stuffed KONG, do not say anything to the dog… no long goodbye’s, just leave. (You are teaching the dog not to become upset, stressed, or overly excited upon your arrival or your departure.)

While at home: Until the dog has become comfortable with you and approaches you on their own, don’t approach the dog unless you absolutely have to; Let the dog come to you. You can call him to you but if they will not come, ignore them. ALWAYS offer a “super treat” anytime they come to you. Do not ask him to sit or do any other command if they come to you. All of that will come later. Just REWARD him for coming to you.

By the time your dog is placed in your home, they should be past the stage of wanting to hide in their crate or another room. Most dogs love their crate. It’s their safe place to go when thing are too overwhelming. For dogs that are in the early stages of training and still showing a lot of fearful behavior, that is the place they need to be for theirs and others safety. However, if you see they are becoming too dependent on it and using it as a way to avoid people or all other situations, this is the time to contact a professional for additional help in encouraging them to join the family.

Even Shy Dogs can get themselves into trouble. Any correction should always be verbal and gentle with a “hey buddy we do it this way” attitude. With most shy dogs, a simple UH-UH is enough.

Ignore submissive behavior and reward wanted behavior. Ignore lowered head, squatting, belly up postures, cowering body language. Do not make a big deal out of it just ignore it..

Never Reprimand For House Soiling/Accidents. Supervise them at ALL TIMES for the first several days/weeks. If they have an accident, clean it up and move on.

Be Aware Of Your Body Posture And Your Facial Expressions

  • No direct eye contact
  • No leaning over the dog - Kneel down instead.
  • Stand to the side of the dog.
  • Do not force the dog to sit or any other ‘command” by using any part of your body.
  • Use the treat/lure method and then wait for them to perform the behavior, click/YES! and reward with the treat or praise.


Do Not Force Your Dog To Interact With You or Other People. Allow your dog to approach you, new people, and experiences in their own time while rewarding them for each tiny step. Forcing them will only add stress and could set them several steps back. Fearful dogs that are pushed or forced into situations (over threshold) could result in a BITE. You can slowly expect more from them as time goes on but do not ask them for more than they are capable of giving. Continued successful rehabilitation is a SLOW process.

You are your dogs advocate! Control The Situations Your Dog Encounters. Though you do not want to encourage shy/fearful behavior, remember not to place them in to situations they are not ready for or where they will be uncomfortable and have no other option but to practice shy or fearful behavior. Everything MUST be introduced gradually and with the utmost patience.

Ask (Politely Insist!) Visitors To Ignore Your Dog.  Some visitors may tell you “all dogs love me!” A dog being shy or fearful has nothing to do with how much they love someone or someone loves them. Keep a jar of treats by the front door for when visitors come. REMIND visitors NOT to LOOK, TOUCH or SPEAK to the dog. All you are asking visitors to do is to NOT LOOK AT THE DOG and toss the treats on the floor near the dog. IF the dog approaches, have the visitor continue offering treats WITHOUT touching, looking or speaking to the dog until your dog signals (shown by behavior and body language) they are comfortable. Then the visitor can softly stroke their chest or under their chin (but not on the top of their head or touch their back!)

Praise and Reward Any Positive Curiosity or Interest in Things or People. If the dog is relaxed and glances at a person or thing the dog may be fearful of, reward them! You will have to be on your “A” game to catch this sometimes.

If You Are Rushed, Feel Impatient. Do not interact with your dog if you do not have the time or if you become frustrated.

Seek help if you feel you or your dog needs it.

Recommendations

Help for Your Shy Dog: Turning Your Terrified Dog into a Terrific Pet, Deborah Wood

Click to Calm, Emma Parsons

The Cautious Canine, Patricia B. McConnell